Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves

A few kilometres from downtown Bhubaneswar, two rocky hills face one another: Udayagiri ("Hill of the Rising Sun") and Khandagiri ("Broken Hill"). Their flanks shelter caves carved into sandstone between the 1st century BC and 1st century AD, commissioned by the Jain king Khāravela. Monastic dwellings, sculpted sanctuaries, royal inscriptions: the site stands as one of the rare testimonies to ancient Jain art in eastern India.

Practical information at a glance

• Admission: Ticketed (site managed by the Archaeological Survey of India); differentiated rates for Indian residents and foreign visitors.
• Recommended duration: 1.5 to 2 hours for both hills.
• Dress code: No strict requirement, but modest clothing is recommended out of respect for the active Jain sanctuaries.
• Access: Approximately 7 km from Bhubaneswar city centre; reachable by auto-rickshaw, taxi, or local bus from Bhubaneswar bus station.
• Accessibility: Limited — both hills require climbing steps carved into the rock.

What to see

Udayagiri boasts around twenty numbered caves, including the celebrated Rani Gumpha (Queen's Cave), a double-galleried chamber adorned with sculpted friezes depicting court scenes, elephants, and dancers. Khandagiri, across the way, offers simpler caves but an open panorama over the plains from its summit, where a modern active Jain temple stands.

History and context

The inscription in Hathigumpha ("Elephant Cave"), engraved in Prakrit on Udayagiri's wall, is the principal source on the reign of Khāravela, sovereign of Kalinga in the 1st century BC. It describes his military campaigns, public works, and devotion to Jainism. The caves served as seasonal retreats for Jain monks, not permanent temples.

Highlights of the visit

Rani Gumpha — the Queen's Cave

The largest and most ornate chamber on the site. Its two gallery levels are decorated with narrative reliefs of remarkable finesse: royal processions, hunting scenes, female figures. Take time to observe the details in the slanting morning light.

Hathigumpha — the royal inscription

Seventeen lines in ancient Brahmi script cover the wall of this elephant-mouth-shaped cave. The text ranks among the most important epigraphic documents of ancient India for the post-Mauryan period.

Summit of Khandagiri

A short climb leads to the upper plateau. The active Jain temple attracts pilgrims there; the view over Bhubaneswar and its surroundings is clear, especially in late afternoon.

Etiquette and visiting rules

• Remove your shoes before entering the active Jain sanctuaries at the top of Khandagiri.
• Avoid touching the sculptures; some are fragile and protected monuments.
• Keep noise to a minimum near prayer spaces still frequented by monks and pilgrims.

Photography tips

Morning light is ideal for photographing the reliefs at Udayagiri: it is low and reveals the relief of the carvings without overexposing the light sandstone. At midday, the east-facing caves fall into shadow — prefer Khandagiri instead. Photography is permitted in the archaeological caves; check restrictions in active worship spaces.

Location and access

The caves lie on National Highway NH-16, approximately 7 km west of Bhubaneswar city centre. Bhubaneswar railway station is the natural arrival point for visitors from other cities. Auto-rickshaws and taxis are available from the station and downtown. The site is close to the Odisha State Museum and the temple district of Lingaraja.

Nearby attractions

• Lingaraja Temple — the largest Shaivite temple in Bhubaneswar, a masterpiece of 11th-century Kalinga architecture.
• Odisha State Museum — collections of tribal art, medieval sculpture, and ancient weapons to enhance your understanding of the caves.
• Mukteshvara Temple — a small 10th-century temple renowned for its delicate sculptures and carved torana (gateway).
• Dhauli — a hill south of Bhubaneswar where Ashoka had his edicts carved after the Kalinga war; a peace stupa and inscribed rock.