Stok Kangri with the Markha Valley

This morning, we fly over the Himalayan range which offers us a breathtaking view of its mountains with gigantic glaciers and dazzling peaks. However, we then perceive the fertile valleys of Leh, north of the imposing Indus River (flight subject to weather conditions). Upon arrival, we are transferred to our hotel.

Free day to relax and acclimatize to the altitude (3,500 m). Late afternoon, stroll through the streets of Leh and its bazaars. Once, the city was an important commercial hub on the Silk Road from China.

Standing at 9 stories high, the Nyamgal Palace dominates the city, making it a mini-version of the Potala Palace in Lhassa.

Now, we are sufficiently acclimatized and ready to begin our trek. Our brief introduction to the Tibetan Buddhist world of Ladakh, which incidentally has been threatened several times by invading forces over the years, allows us to understand the significance of the location of the hill and monasteries during our trek in the Markha valley. A 40 km trek along the road to Srinagar and Kashmir leads us to Nimu, where the glacial water of the Zanskar River meets the sediment-laden water of the Indus. We branch off onto a dirt path, cross the Indus on a sturdy bridge, then follow the left bank of the Zanskar River through a gorge to Chilling. This village is known in Ladakh and Zanskar for the skill of its goldsmiths. Chilling is also the gateway to the Markha valley. We camp at Chilling and spend a peaceful afternoon.

Crossing the Zanskar River by a suspension bridge, we rejoin our trekking team, with the ponies, who arrived at the meeting point via the Markha Valley one day before our arrival. After sorting the loads for the ponies, we begin our first day of hiking. We follow a narrow trail on the right bank of the Zanskar Gorge to a point where the Markha River reaches the main valley. We take a short climbing session to ascend a high spur. On the opposite side of the river, a series of red-painted chortens marks the way to Zanskar. We head Southeast in the Markha Valley to reach the irrigated fields of the Skaya hamlets, then Skiu where we camp for the night. At this point, the main trail in the Markha Valley from the north on the Ganda La joins our itinerary. A small monastery at Skiu and an abandoned fortress nestle on the cliff above our camp by the riverside.

Journey duration: 5 hours

Today, we have quite a long day, but easy as we take a hike along the Markha valley. The trail is not very difficult, which allows us to admire the magnificent landscapes around us. The colors of the Ladakh mountains are truly spectacular. The pastel pink, bronze blue and turquoise green mountains shine in the sun and change color exceptionally as the sun rises and sets. We don't just follow the river, we cross it a few times as well. We have lunch at Sara where we are welcome inside a tea tent. Beyond the Chalak camp, there is an impressive line of chortens and a huge mound of goat horns placed there to ward off all the evil spirits that try to enter the valley. After climbing up to a small pass, we descend back to the river. A medieval fort, silhouetted on the hill, gives us an indication that we have almost reached Markha. Markha is a magnificent little village. We have time to explore the monastery in the afternoon. Our camp is set up on the pastures near the village.
Walking Time: 6 hours
Distance: 18 Kms

Just beyond Markha, the trail passes through the Chacham valley from where we catch sight of Umlung Gompa overhanging the cliff. We visit this complex affiliated with Hemis, which turns out to be the most important monastery in the valley. Continuing our adventure, we reach the village of Umlung, then Hankar where impressive ruins of a fort and a small gompa are nestled. From Hankar, the trail moves away from the main valley and follows the stream Nimaling towards Thachungtse. We pitch our camp for the night there. On site, we have the opportunity to observe wild sheep on the pastures.
Hiking Time: 7 hours
Distance: 17 Kms

Today, we embark on a short hiking trail towards Nimaling. The path climbs towards the plateau where the valley opens onto new horizons. In the foreground, the views of Kang Yangtse culminating at 6,400 m altitude, the highest peak in the valley, are simply spectacular. In this region, there are no permanent settlements. But during the summer months, shepherds come with their herds of sheep, goats and dzos (yak-cow hybrids) to graze. The shepherds reside in stone shelters near the grazing area during this period and sell yogurt or cheese. In the evening, the animals descend from the hills. It is quite common to see hundreds of animals roaming around the camp. We reach Nimaling around lunchtime. In the afternoon, we can participate in an optional walk behind the camp towards Kang Yangtse. This walk is worthwhile, offering impressive views of Kang Yangtse which, at 6,400 m, is the highest peak in the Markha Valley.

Journey duration: 4 hours

Distance: 7 km

Today, our walk begins with the ascent towards Kongmaru La. It is quite a long and difficult route, with zigzag trails up to the pass at 5,286 m. We expect fantastic viewpoints: looking back, we catch sight of Kang Yangtse, Dzo Jongo and Regoni Malari, while ahead, the Stok range and the Indus valley capture our attention. The descent is steep until we enter a gorge. From there, we descend the trails more gradually, with a few small river crossings. High up on the arid cliffs, you can spot the elusive blue sheep that inhabits the region. Our campsite for tonight is located at Chuskyurmo.

Journey duration: 6 hours

From Chuskyurmo, we head west to cross an affluent valley. We begin a long and progressive ascent towards Gyuncho La. Coming down from the pass, we camp at Shang Phu.

Walking Time: 7 Hrs

This section of our circuit passes through a rarely visited area and involves crossing many spurs and minor passes, with occasional views of the northern Indus Valley and peaks. We trek along the path leading to Shang La (4,800m), then descend to the Tokpo river for lunch. After the meal, we rejoin our camp at Gangpoche (4,300 m) at a lower altitude.

Trek duration: 6 hours

In the morning, we head towards the final pass, Matho La. The ascent of the road allows us to enjoy beautiful views of Stok Kangri. Then, we descend into the valley north of the village of Stok. The high altitude and wild area is only visited by groups of climbers, except for the local inhabitants who spend part of the summer months in picturesque villages with stone cabins. People come from far away to graze their herds of sheep and cattle. This valley connects the village of Stok to the homonymous base camp. The very pleasant camping is located on a grassy area, near a few meltwater streams.
Walking Time: 7 Hrs

The summit ascent is long and difficult (at least 12 hours). After a very early departure, around 2 a.m., we cross a glacier at the foot of the climb. Although not technical, the route to the summit is very steep and involves the use of ice axes and crampons.

For safety, we also carry ropes. We make frequent stops along the ridge and sometimes even before. The route is challenging, it is necessary to walk along an exposed ridge for some time, with fog over sometimes icy rocks. Reaching extreme altitude is the greatest challenge. The climb from camp to summit lasts five to seven hours. The final 100 meters require some dexterity, bringing us to traverse the slopes just below the summit. From there, the panoramas are simply incredible. The tiny Leh is visible in the distance, and all around us, the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas, Ladakh and the distant Karakorum adorn the horizon.

We spend a short time at the summit to savor the beauty of the landscape and catch our breath, before slowly descending to the base camp. The team has prepared a delicious hot meal for us there.
Please note: The climb is entirely optional. For those who don't intend to participate, other wonderful walks are accessible around the base camp, including one that takes you to the glacier at the foot of Stok Kangri for magnificent views.

It is an easy but spectacular walk through the valley towards Stok. Along the way, we descend through a layer of multicolored rocks. As we exit the gorge and valley, the trail widens, indicating that the village of Stok is not far away.

We left our vehicle here. Upon our arrival, we board the car to reach Leh at lunch time. We enjoy a hot shower and organize a well-deserved little celebration.

Early in the morning, we are transferred to the airport for the return flight to Delhi. Upon arrival in Delhi, we rejoin our hotel. The rest of the day is free for individual visits or last-minute shopping.