Perched in the mid-elevation mountains of Uttarakhand, Mussoorie and its surroundings have become a major destination for India's middle class seeking refuge from summer heat. Despite its bustling tourist activity, it remains a haven of peace for those in search of calm and fresh air.

It's hardly surprising that Mussoorie gets flooded with holidaymakers when temperatures soar across Inde. At 2,000 meters elevation, you're guaranteed some coolness, fresh air, and above all, verdant vistas that stretch to the horizon. The "queen of the hills" strikes the perfect balance: nestled between the Yamuna Valley and the Himalayan range, between heat and cold. Just right.

The British arrived at this conclusion in the 19th century after discovering this territory inhabited solely by shepherds and their flocks. The climate proved supremely pleasant, and the numerous hills offered excellent forest hiking—precisely what colonists in search of a retreat were looking for. They founded the town starting in 1825, leaving indelible marks of their presence: grand Victorian mansions, churches, and numerous schools.

Mussoorie revolves around its main thoroughfare, the Mall. This is the nerve center and the quintessential place for strolling. Most shops line this street, from sweet vendors to Nike and Adidas boutiques. You'll also pass numerous craft stalls run by Tibetans. After fleeing Tibet in 1959, the Dalai Lama and his followers initially settled in Mussoorie.

It was here that the "Tibetan Government in Exile" was founded, before relocating to Dharamsala the following year. Most of the city's 5,000 Tibetans gather in Happy Valley, a village three kilometers to the west. The Shedup Choepelling, a colorful, serene, and welcoming Buddhist temple located there, is well worth a visit.

From the village, there are two particularly beautiful, moderately strenuous hikes to undertake. The first leads to the top of Benog Hill and the Jwala Devi Temple. The temple itself is unremarkable, rather dull and neglected. But the steep paths leading to it are dotted with exceptional viewpoints. The scenery here contradicts those who claim you're never alone in Inde!

The second hike takes you to Kempty Falls, roughly fifteen kilometers from Mussoorie. It's one of the region's major attractions: a multilevel waterfall nestled in a small hollow between hills.

At the base, a short walk brings you to small natural pools of cool water. It's utterly remote, with views of the facing hillside and only the sound of flowing water.

The highest point in the Mussoorie region is Lal Tibba, which stands at 2,438 meters above sea level. Located roughly ten kilometers north of town, this is where you'll find the best views of the snow-capped Himalayan peaks. On clear days, the sunrise is unforgettable.

Closer by, the heights of Landour also offer compelling vistas of the Himalayan range. A path runs along the north face for several kilometers. You'll encounter young people armed with bottles of whisky—the serenity and light foot traffic make it an ideal spot for clandestine apéritifs. Ironically, Landour is home to a cemetery and two Christian churches, Victorian relics from the 19th century.

During monsoon season, clouds frequently envelop Mussoorie. Within minutes, visibility vanishes, replaced by thick, pale gray mist that imparts a mystical, soothing quality. You realize that at Mussoorie, you're above it all and your worries remain trapped below the clouds. It's enough to reinforce the impression that you've stepped into a small paradise.