Ideal for a weekend getaway from New Delhi or a perfect stop during a trip to Inde, the small town of Bundi offers all the charm of Rajasthan, yet remains surprisingly little visited. A day spent discovering its inhabitants and their stories.

"In Bundi, it hasn't rained for four months!", exclaims Ashok between sips of chai. This man in his forties, with drawn features and fingers blackened by grime, works in a small shop selling kerosene. "The crops are failing and the wells are dry! Times are really tough", he adds, sounding discouraged.

At first glance, Bundi hardly seems like an arid landscape. Located in southeastern Rajasthan, this city of 88,000 inhabitants is nestled between hills covered in vegetation. Far from the sandy landscapes of Jaisalmer, this peaceful town with its blue facades reminds one of Jodhpur. Its main lake, at the center of which stands a cenotaph dedicated to Varuna, the god of water, evokes the scenery of Udaipur. Not part of the classic Rajasthan itineraries, Bundi remains relatively untouched by tourism. This gives it a certain authenticity.

Travel guides mention that British writer Rudyard Kipling spent some time here. Some even claim he wrote The Jungle Book here. But regardless of the duration, the summer palace where he stayed, called Sukh Mahal, remains a haven of peace amid lush surroundings.

Bundi's reputation derives mainly from its school of painting, established in the 17th century, specializing in miniatures and murals. With drawings in hand, a young vendor named Munish explains its fundamentals: "In Bundi, we paint eyes like those of peacocks. And the nose is very long and very pointed". The tradition is alive and well. Even today, the walls of the city are adorned with charming paintings of Rajput warriors, proudly seated on their elephants and horses.

Once the capital of a princely state, Bundi was governed until Inde's independence by a Rajput family, the Hadas, who ruled the region for nearly 800 years. "Today, the maharajah of Bundi lives in Delhi and has no interest in our town anymore", Munish tells us, lamenting the poor maintenance of the palace and fort.

However, when it comes to local myths, the young man's enthusiasm returns. "First, there's the story of Hadi Rani. So besotted with his wife Hadi, the king demands a memento from her before heading to the battlefield. She cuts off her own head and asks for it to be brought to the king!". Munish immediately continues with the legend of Bhera, the headless knight. "A temple was even built where his head fell", he adds gravely. One wonders if beheading isn't a local tradition...

In Bundi, some havelis—these old mansions typical of Rajasthan—have been converted into restaurants. It's one of the town's charms that no two dishes ever taste quite the same from one place to another.

Finally, how can one not mention Kukki? Everyone knows this man who presents himself as a "self-taught archaeologist". In his personal museum, he proudly displays a fine collection of carved stones, jewelry, terracotta vessels, and artifacts from various periods. While Kukki's scholarship may sometimes raise questions, this character is absolutely worth a visit. As is the town of Bundi itself.